The rainbow flags will forever hold their rightful place on the golden sands of Ipanema between postos (towers) 8 and 9, but the famous Farme de Amoedo stretch no longer reigns supreme in the hearts and minds of gay Rio. Why did this happen? Well, mainly in a bid to escape the image that Farme became associated with over the last few years, especially during the summer influx. "Farme is out of fashion”, says one local lawyer, referring to the stretch of Ipanema beach dedicated to the gay community near bustling Rua Farme de Amoedo, the road leading to it. "Now its all male escorts and tourists. The rest migrated to Posto 9 and nearer to Rua Hanibal (Mendonça)."

There is little doubt that the most fun is still to be had at the end of Farme, however. Before midday it is either quiet or filled with families, but from lunchtime onwards the crowds descend and the fun begins. Grab a caipirinha (R$9 - they go amazingly well with the sunshine and a pair of trunks), a deckchair, and kick back and enjoy the view.

"The most handsome men are now at Posto 9 and 10, so we go there”, says student Marcelo Vasconcelos whilst sunning himself with a group of friends at the end of Rua Maria Quiteria three blocks along. Though many remain loyal to the Farme set, gay Rio now can call other stretches of beach home, including Coqueirão, the fabled backyard of the bronzed Carioca youth that some say is growing increasingly pink. "I think in two years, the 'pink belt’ will really reach the Coqueirão. Without a doubt Ipanema is gay. They really should change the name of the song Girl from Ipanema to Boy from Ipanema!”, jokes Marcelo.